One belt on the front of your engine runs most of what you'd notice going missing. The serpentine belt drives the alternator that charges the battery, the AC compressor that makes August tolerable, the power steering pump on vehicles that use one, and on a lot of engines the water pump too. It's a single loop, so when it breaks, all of that stops at the same moment.
First, the distinction that causes the most confusion at the counter: this is the accessory belt on the outside of the engine, not the timing belt behind the front cover that keeps the valves and pistons in sync. Different part, different job, different repair, and timing belt service has its own page.
Heat is what kills belts here, not mileage. Heat and ozone age rubber, and a belt that lives in Central Florida sun and soaks in stop-and-go engine heat hardens faster than the same belt in a milder climate. Two things show up when we look. Cracking across the ribs, which is normal aging taken far enough. And glazing, where the belt surface goes hard and shiny and quits gripping the pulleys the way it should. Newer belt compounds often don't crack visibly at all before they're worn out, so we measure rib depth with a wear gauge instead of judging by eye.
The noise tells us something too. A steady squeal on startup or when you turn the wheel usually means the belt is slipping. A rhythmic chirp that comes and goes points more at a pulley: something out of alignment, or a bearing starting to drag. That's why we spin the tensioner and the idler pulleys by hand every time a belt comes off. Putting a new belt on a bad pulley is how a fresh belt starts making the exact same noise a week later, and nobody wants that phone call.