Radiator Repair at our Frostproof shop

The radiator is the part of the cooling system that actually gets rid of heat. Hot coolant comes in at the top, spreads across a core of thin tubes and fins, and the air moving through those fins carries the heat away. It's a heat exchanger, and when it stops exchanging heat, everything upstream of it looks like it's failing too.

Radiators fail in a few predictable ways. Most modern radiators use plastic end tanks crimped to an aluminum core with a gasket in between, and enough heat cycles will eventually make that seam weep or crack the tank outright. The core gets restricted from the inside when old coolant breaks down and leaves deposits, so coolant still flows but heat transfer drops off. And the face of the radiator gets wrecked from the outside by road debris, bugs, and packed mud, which is easy to confirm with a light through the grille.

A few symptoms point at the radiator specifically rather than somewhere else in the loop. A puddle near the front center of the vehicle. Dried coolant crust along the top or bottom seam. Overheating that's steady rather than intermittent. And a radiator that stays hot at the top while the bottom hose barely warms, which suggests flow is being choked inside the core. The opposite pattern, an engine that's hot while the whole radiator stays cool, usually means coolant isn't being circulated at all, and that's a water pump conversation instead.

On repair versus replacement, you'll get the honest answer for your vehicle. A cracked plastic end tank isn't a repair, it's a replacement. Light fin damage often isn't worth touching at all. Some older all-metal radiators can still be cleaned out or repaired by a shop that does that work. We'll show you photos of what we found, tell you which category you're in, and let you decide, rather than defaulting to the biggest ticket. Radiator work is backed by our 36 month, 36,000 mile nationwide warranty.